Can I FIX Various CORSAIR Gaming Products? – PART 1

46 thoughts on “Can I FIX Various CORSAIR Gaming Products? – PART 1”

• What are the model numbers of the desoldering pump and microscope please?

• Full marks for persistence!

  I now know why I don't need an illuminated keyboard 😎🤣🤣🤣🤣

• Can you use the HDMI output on the microscope with a capture card straight onto OBS rather than relying on the SD card

• If you like to test LED then i would limit the current to 20mAh at maximum of 3v…depending on the color it's safer to limit to 2v like red as an example.
  There is a chart for led colors for the maximum Voltage.
  The safest route is to use diode test on you Multimeter which allows you to test LEDs Visually without damaging them.

• What a marathon! I have to admit I would have tossed it but your patience is next level. Gaming devices have a hard life.

• Dude, no matter what the voltage, you can't short a non current limited PSU across an LED. You should have had a 1K resistor in series.

• lovely fix mate, the off coloured lights would have really bothered me too.
  I think it's funny when people bring up the hours spent on fixing things in cost breakdowns, because if you like doing that then it's actually hobby time, and time well spent.
  When you get some fun out of fixing things, then that is all the reward you need. Keep it up Vince.

• I don't know from video if your okay button is serving as a start/stop or a start/pause. So when you hit power it is not saved cause it was only paused. Or maybe there is an autosave feature in settings? But as for the Mains Switch. Put it in a box or something.
  I have a Smart Bulb installed in bedroom so I can use my Echo Show to turn the lights on and off. It's been years and I still try to flip the wall switch to turn off/on the lights. So, I designed and printed up a safety switch that blocks anyone from flipping the switch by accident. Muscle memory a double edged sword in some instances.

• would using the remote for the camera change your muscle memory into sorting your video issues? I personally don't record, i automatically turn off from the socket instead of the the front panel. Kudos for the extra effort to get it working. Great vid as usual.

• Ahhh "Keebs" as in keyboard, now I get it.

• Interesting. My Andonstar microscope has the same little control but it only controls the lights. The microscope itself needs to be turned on/off by the button on the microscope itself. I wonder if they fixed your problem in later versions or there might be a slight chance that your little controller is killing all power by mistake. Perhaps you could pull it apart and make it so it only kills power to the lights?

• Its maybe doesn't write the data to the card until you press stop.

• All the things that the donator of the keyboard described happened to me as well, with two separate Corsair keyboards, the K70 and Strafe RGB, random disconnections, and inconsistent key operation on specific keys, sometimes working, sometimes double or triple repeating, and the RGB issues. I elected to throw them away, and after the K70, my second Corsair keyboard suffered these issues, I put Corsair peripherals on my do-not-buy list, over $300 in keyboards, and both failed in just over 3 years combined. Nonetheless, it was interesting to see this keyboard taken apart and fixed.

• When the doorbell rang, I was hoping it was an electronic device that had escaped an e-waste bin and made its way to Vince's door for repair, like a Tom Robbins book or a Pixar film 😉

• Now Vince. You are correct about the microscpe. I had one the exact the as yours. I now bought a new on and it now has a seperate usb cable to power it. The lights are now seperate. Do not know about the remote yet. Not used it.

• Ah, so that's what RGB stands for. Rorange, green and blue 😂

• I'm glad you did a keyboard thanks, do you have a link to your extracter fan?

• Nice job with the repair. Lots of patience needed for this one.

• I have a K70 keyboard, the original red LED only version. I call those 2 screws (the one under the metal logo sticker and the one hidden under the plastic clip next to volume roller) "the DIY Frustrator Screws". I've told Corsair support the same thing too. Of course they are. They want you to give up/break your K70 so that they may sell you another. Anyhow, my issue was the WASD keys were overused and chattering on the A key specifically. So I bought myself some new cherry browns (with the integrated clear plastic LED holder area) and desoldered the originals and replaced them successfully with my own ones. Still use it after this repair. The other gotcha with this is there is a comb pressure connector which invariably will fall onto your desk/floor when you separate the two kb halves. I learnt all these tricks after watching others struggle with their own repairs. Glad I invested the time as it made my repairs so much easier.

• The LEDs used in keyboards are usually cheap rubbish, and just fail over time.
  I've got a Logitech G513 and just accept now that I might get a new duff key light every day, despite it never having had liquid damage.

• you done hell of a job getting that keybord working well done

• Oh wow.. I wasn't aware that not all mech keyboards have swappable switches 😮

• Another great video with plenty of top tips for makers/repairers everywhere.
  I do have a quick question Vince, where do you get your Leaded solder and which brand do you use???? It is getting more and more difficult to get quality Leaded solder at a reasonable price, so I wondered where you get yours???
  Many thanks and please keep up the great work,
  Joe

• Others have probably answered already, but hey, more engagement by me commenting, right? The blue/red Windows in a padlock button at the top will activate/deactivate the Windows key/s so that when you're playing a game and accidentally press the Windows key it won't throw you out of your game at an inopporune moment.

• I've got a K70 RGB LUX and it also seems to have a failed LED. The Z key only lights up red now. If I try setting it to any other colour, it'll go dimly red or completely off. The keyboard also suddenly started randomly disconnecting (would be fine for some days and then have a disconnect spasm). I disassembled the keyboard because I felt like inspecting it to look inside, cleaned the PCB with some IPA and that seemed to have stopped the random disconnects (hasn't had a spasm for several weeks now).

  I'm a little bothered by the Z key not working on this as I do like to have my keyboard set to a static colour. Seeing it off or red when set to a non-red colour is a little annoying. If this video is anything to go by, then it doesn't seem worth having to desolder all the keys just to repair one LED. I may do it one day, but for now I've just decided to ignore the issue. I don't have a microscope or an appropriate soldering iron tip for this job either. I use a TS100 soldering iron and only have the TS-D24 and TS-I (this doesn't seem to work very well any more) tips.

  This was a very interesting video to watch though.

• Very nice work. Very patient too.

• With led strips that is so cheap, they are usually factory rejects,, ie in your case badly cut.
  I had a batch that the lenses were not stuck on properly and when I grabbed them with my tweezers the lens would pop off taking some traces with it.
  But you do find that you get a fair amount of leds that work well getting you a fair repair rate.
  You have now reminded me that I have to clean the keys etc on my laptop,,, not my fav job with years of gunge and workshop muck 🤧

• At the end there, that windows-key with the lock is to disable the windows key bottom left. When you are gaming and it gets intense, you may accidentally hit the windows key and that pulls you out of the game and onto the start-menu, not desirable so you just hit that lock-key to avoid that happening.

• If you add a resistor, something like 1K, when you test LEDs, it's unlikely you will burn them out even if the voltage is a little high.

• You've got patience and determination
  Well done Vince 👏

• For the microscope issues, why not put a cheap powerbank at the back to keep powering the recording equipment until you switch it off 'properly'? Almost like a UPS..
  So, power from the dongle thing, to the powerbank, and then out again to the microscope. So it never loses power regardless of the state of the lights button.

• Your microscope is probably recording to some form of temporary or staging file internal to the device memory and is only being exported to the SD card when you shut it down "properly". You're right to be angry at it, it's terrible from a usability standpoint. Have you checked for a firmware update to fix this?

• Very conscientious. A suggestion is to put something insulating between the microscope stand and PCB when injecting voltages. Not sure if your microscope has HDMI output, relying on SD in these devices has always been problematic. Your dinner looks a little disappointing.

• I have always been able to lift seals intact just by using isopropyl alcohol and lifting with a sharp blade. They stay perfect and go back down smooth. Once I even had to lift a calibration seal to repair a unit after calibration. Only my supervisor new and that was only because it was he that told me to do it. It stayed perfect until it went in for calibration the next time and was broken by them.

• I have the same keyboard and about 30% of my keys colours don't work correctly, I watched a video on how to fix them and I just never bothered, it was wayyyy too much effort just to get some colours back!! Great work tho Vince!

• what is the desoldering tool Vince?

• That's what I love about you, you never give up

• It might not be worth the time of someone living in the West, but there are for sure lots of countries where a repair like this makes sense. This video is going to help those people.

• Great job, Vince. I had one of these keyboards a few years back. Spilt water in it, and when I went to fix it, I took one look at the amount of pins I needed to desolder and gave up immediately 😂

• Nice work, Vince

• have been in the trade along time but have to say there are some products over hyped for the quality. Well done vince

• I have seen that Led bulbs can go bad as well and causing creating a certain color. I have seen that one Led contains more then one collored led in it and combined you can create all kinds of colors. If one or more colors are defective it might also cause a not changing color of the light.

• Cant wait for part 2

• I think the microscope failing to keep a video is maybe a corrupt file when the power is cut without completing the video gracefully? Also got another Corsair keyboard if you want to put yourself through that unsoldering hell again 😀

• Hey Vince. What happened to the gaming headset that I sent you?

• Had a wooting two there i killed a led with tea, the led was burned out too. Also got a brownish tint to it.

  To the caputre issue. It lookes like a mini HDMI port at the screen side, could you use a external capture card? I do not know what is shown at the output but seems to be the camera feed logicaly. Yes it is a extra cost, but with the powerbutton so close to the light an so on at the controll it screems to be pressed by accident

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